Mikaela Vournas
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Mikaela Vournas is an anthropology and geography senior and Mustang News study abroad columnist.
Nobody celebrates the full moon better than the local Thais of Ko Pha Ngan. Wait, that’s not right. Nobody celebrates the full moon better than the westerners on holiday in Ko Pha Ngan.
Prior to last weekend, I had only vague ideas associated with the phrase, “full moon.” The words brought to mind folkloric phenomena such as insomnia, insanity and perhaps magic.
Since attending Thailand’s notorious “Full Moon Party,” these same phenomena are brought to mind, but in a much different sense. I picture insomnia in that approximately 20,000 other foreigners and I danced on the white sand beach until 9 a.m. I picture insanity in the behavior of certain partygoers. Lastly, I picture magic in the form of flamethrowers, glowing lights and beautiful music.
This monthly celebration is a right of passage for Southeast Asian backpackers and a form of income for the local people of the remote Thai island.
The moment I stepped off the ferry, I realized this was not Thailand as I knew it.
Taxi drivers swarmed the dock, offering prices in perfect English that seemed laughably expensive. Flyers were littered everywhere, each one boasting a party in a different environment; full moon party, half moon party, black moon party, jungle party, pool party. Each one promised to be more fun than its competition. Restaurants offering farong — “foreign” — food lined the streets.
The full moon party itself was just about everything I expected it to be by that point. Crowds of people swarmed the beach in various forms of neon clothing, floral headbands and bathing suit tops. Facing the water was a combination of DJs and minibars selling sand pails filled with various forms of alcohol, soda and Red Bull. Thai boys that looked no older than 12 years old spun various objects lit on fire, even jump ropes that the most insane of people decided to jump in.
The night came and went, but what made a lasting impression on me at the time was the dependence of the island on these parties.
If Thailand is a poster child for globalization, the full moon party is its mascot.
It is quite apparent that tropical islands tend to cater toward tourists for obvious reasons. However, after the full moon party, I was under the impression that Ko Pha Ngan was on an entirely different level of touristy.
The day after the party, most foreigners planned to vacate the abused beach in hopes of leading a more civilized vacation on Ko Pha Ngan’s neighboring islands, Ko Tao or Ko Samui. My friends and I heard a rumor about the other side of the island being beautiful and much calmer than the area surrounding Haad Rin beach. Being the broke study abroad students we are, we decided to skip the costly ferry ride to the next island in favor of seeing what the north had to offer.
After a 30-minute cab ride, we found ourselves in a picturesque bungalow only minutes from a remote beach.
The next three days were spent in pure relaxation in this utopic land. I swam in the warm waters, napped in hammocks, sipped pina coladas at sunset and watched young Thai boys play soccer on the beach.
It was hard to believe we were so close to the land of nocturnal madness.
When it was time to leave, I said a painful goodbye, with a much more well-rounded vacation and understanding of the island.
There is more than one side to every island, just like there is more than one side to every story. You just have to dig a little deeper.