Shiraz and Syrah … bringing sexy back

So what’s the difference? Who cares? Que Syrah Shiraz, right? Wrong! While the grapes may be similar, the regions and styles of these two wines are very different.

It’s like the Parent Trap. Hallie is the American and Annie is the over-seas gal. They both pair up and decide to switch places. Well, in California, Syrah/Shiraz trends are beginning to reflect the Parent Trap Effect. Allow me a moment to delve into a brief and whimsical history of the Syrah grape.

Supposedly, this grape originates back in Persia or modern day Iran. While the Crusaders were out ransacking the land (we’re not talking Campus Crusades here), there was one vinophile out to get his. A French knight, by the name of de Sterimberg, thought it would be smart to bring back vine cuttings from the city of Shiraz in Persia. He took the cuttings and returned to his home in the South of France. Since he was French, he admitted to having an affinity for biking, snails and cutting off sounds from the end of words. So, he came back calling it “Syrah.”

Immediately following his return home, this former knight became a recluse, solely tending to his grapes. This area in France is now called “La Hermitage.” Literally translated, it means, “that creepy French guy who keeps to himself and vaguely smells of cabbage.” OK, it just means “The Hermit,” but I thought my translation was better.

Today, this region of France, La Hermitage, boasts some of the best Syrah in France.

Australia on the other hand, has a slightly shorter version of Shiraz lineage. In 1832, Australia first imported Syrah to Australia from France. Since Australians are tougher all around, they figured their grapes would be too.

These calculations were right on the money. The strain on the vine gave the fruit a more concentrated flavor and voila…thick, spicy Shiraz was born.

Old World and New World are considered styles and growing practices that differentiate Syrah and Shiraz. Old World is considered most of Europe including France, and the style includes a more subtly sophisticated type of Syrah. Whereas the New World includes places like Australia, South Africa and the United States. These growing areas are considered hotter areas producing a rowdier, louder and robust Shiraz.

That’s where the Parent Trap Effect comes in. Up until recently, the segregation was widely know. Syrah comes from Europe and Shiraz comes from Australia. But now, California wineries are at a metaphoric crossroads of sorts.

If the United States is considered “New World,” but the winery uses French practices (as most do), then is the product still a Shiraz? No! Most wines produced in California are called Syrah because they implement French practices in vineyard practices as well as in the wine cellar. So you have the Hallie-Annie Effect. They both are identical twins brought up in completely different environments. So here in California, Shiraz and Syrah meet.

I recently spoke with a local Edna Valley winemaker about this anomaly. He informed me that while it used to make a difference what you called it, consumers don’t really respond well to having it called Shiraz in California. He told me that of last years vintages, the winery labeled half “Syrah” and half “Shiraz.” The Syrah sold out in a quarter of the time it took to sell their Shiraz.

My choice this week includes an Australian Shiraz and a San Luis Obispo Syrah. The Edna Valley 2004 Syrah ($8 to $10) was full of ripe fruit and had a smooth sexiness going down.

The Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz ($8 to $12) received a 87 in Wine and Spirits Magazine. It had the richest dark purple color to it, and the intoxicating smell included vibrant cherries and hints of black pepper.

Whichever bottle you choose, make sure you pair these dark beauties with lamb, pot roast or even dark chocolate and you are set to have an enjoyable evening.

This week why not take home both California Shiraz and Syrah? Because, after all, isn’t it everyone’s fantasy to have twins together? Here in California, we are fortunate enough to have twins together every night.

Lauren Jeter is a 2005 wine and viticulture graduate and is currently pursuing a master’s in ag business.